Philia “Clemente” Sword

Inspired by the Tales of Destiny game, this is Philia’s Swordian – Clemente.

Overall size is approximately 106cm x 21cm x 5cm (42″ x 8″ x 2″). The kit is set up for ease of finishing and assembly, while the finished version comes fully painted and assembled. Blade measures approximately 78.5cm / 31″ long, hilt measures approximately 16cm / 6.25″ long.

    

 

Order finished of this prop at https://mkprops.storenvy.com/products/36557318-philia-s-clemente-sword-tales-of-destiny

Kit versions are available at https://mkprops.storenvy.com/products/36557325-philia-s-clemente-sword-kit-tales-of-destiny

And to print your own, STLs can be purchased at https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/philia-s-sword-clemente-tales-of-destiny

 

Kit Includes

  • Blade Segments (4)
  • Blade Inlay (8 total in 4 styles)
  • Blade Side Detail (4 total in 2 styles)
  • Grip
  • Pommel Gem
  • Pommel Gem Mount
  • Guard
  • Center Gem (2)
  • Center Circle (2)
  • Center Red Detail (12)
  • Support rod to 1/2″ PVC fittings (4)

 

Additional materials required for kit assembly

  • 1/2″ PVC Pipe – 13.125″ or 33cm long
  • 1/8″ support rod – 36″ or 91.5cm long
  • 1/8″ support rod (x2) – 26.5″ or 67cm long

 

For assembly, glue such as a superglue or E6000 will also be required. While it is not necessary, it can be useful to heat weld the blade segments together using an old soldering iron or other hot element after gluing them together.

 

Painting Suggestions

There are several options for how to paint these kits, depending on what paints you prefer, if you have the equipment, and have a location where you are able to use some of them. For the finished versions we sell, we tend to use a combination of spray paints and airbrushed acrylics.

  • Spray paints – Rustoleum, Krylon, or similar brands for primer colors for white and black, chrome silver, gold, and clear gloss
  • Acrylic or enamel hand painting – Folk Art, Apple Barrel, Model Master, Testors, or similar brands for white, black, silver, gold, and clear top coat
  • Airbrush – mixed acrylic paint with water, mixed lacquers with thinner, or CreateX or similar brands for pre-mixed paints

 

Assembly

 

Step 1: Dry Fitting

First, be sure that all parts are in the kit, and use this process to see how they fit together. Do not glue anything together at this stage, this is just to make sure everything looks right. Install the support rods in the blade segments to keep everything in alignment with the longest rod in the center.

Slide the center halves into the base of the blade, then slide the PVC pipe into the hole formed. Next, the center ‘gem’ portions can be inserted into the centers. The guard can be slid on after that – be careful with some of the detail parts, as they can be fragile. Finally, slide the PVC support into the center, then hilt and pommel gem mount onto the end of the PVC.

Since nothing is glued together, take everything apart and prepare for finishing and painting at this point.

 

Step 2: Blade Assembly

To combine the blade parts into a single unit, first glue the support rods into the tip segment.

Next, slide the next segment onto the support rods. Add some glue to the matching surfaces of the blade segments and to the support rods. Repeat this process for each blade segment.

If desired, use a soldering iron or other heat element to heat weld the segments together. Even with the support rods, this can help keep the blade segments together, and given the size/weight of this sword, it can help in the long run.

Glue the support rod to 1/2″ PVC pipe fittings to the tail of the center support rod. These are there to just add a bit more support and connection between the blade and the grip, so here we usually place the first one near the base of the blade, the next two spaced out a bit along the length, and the final one near the end of the support rod.

Finally, use bondo or other filler material to take care of the slight gaps between the blade segments and any holes or dents made by the heat welding process.

 

Step 3: Finishing

For finished swords made here, we use a number of finishing steps, so this is a general guideline for possible steps to take, depending on your available tools and materials.

First, a hand detail power sander is used to smooth out any obvious print lines and smooth bondo/filler material. 120-220 grit paper is used here.

Next, 2-3 primer coats are applied to all parts and allowed to cure completely. A second round of power sanding may be desired at this point, followed by a second round of primer coats, and another round of sanding with 220 grit paper.

Hand sanding and wet-sanding is optional at this point. 240-800 grit paper is generally used, or up to 2000 grit if desired.

 

Step 4: Painting

Be sure to wash all parts before continuing. A mild soap and water are suggested to remove any remaining dust, then allow the parts to dry thoroughly. Assuming the parts have not had primer applied yet, be sure to use at least one coat of primer of some sort to help the paint bond to the parts.

The kit parts are separated as much as possible to make painting easy. If you are using spray paint, be sure to do it in a well ventilated area or outside.

To keep the blade color as consistent as possible, we hang the blade from the center support rod and spray both sides at the same time. First with primer to unify the colors, then with a base chrome, finally with a purple/blue tint.

 

Step 4: Final Assembly

Once all paint is completely cured, arrange the parts for ease of assembly – similar to the dry fitting instructions, though the main support rods are already glued into the blade at this point. Slide the center halves into the base of the blade with some glue around the rim.

Then put some glue along the center PVC rod and insert the center gems on either side. Glue the 12 red segments around the rim of the center ring.

And next glue the guard in place.

If you are wrapping the hilt with leather, pleather, or other materials, be sure to do that, then glue the hilt to the PVC support. The hilt is slightly oval at the top, which matches the hole at the base of the guard.

Next, glue the pommel gem mount to the end of the PVC.

And finally, glue the pommel gem to the end, and the sword is complete.

STORAGE

Be sure to store the prop in a dark place, such as a closet or drawer when not in use. Do not keep the prop in a car, as hot cars can cause warping or bubbling of the plastic over time. Depending on the paint(s) used, over time sunlight may cause fading or yellowing.